Philadelphia Rowhome Maintenance: A Complete Owner’s Guide

Table of Contents

Keeping a Philadelphia rowhome in good shape comes down to controlling water. Keep the flat roof sloped to its drain and the gutters clear, keep brick joints tight with a mortar that matches the brick, keep the basement dry, and fix small cracks before they spread to the neighbor’s wall. The City’s Philadelphia Rowhouse Manual covers all of this in detail; below is the practical version, part by part.

Why rowhomes need their own routine

Philadelphia is, in the manual’s words, largely a rowhouse city, and rowhouses outnumber every other housing type here. They are also old: 41% of homes in Philadelphia County were built before 1940 and only 15% after 1980 (Economy League of Greater Philadelphia). Shared walls, soft historic mortar, flat roofs and plaster interiors behave differently from a newer detached house, and a repair on your side can affect the house next door.

Roof and drainage

Most rowhouse roofs look flat but slope toward a drain. The Rowhouse Manual gives the minimum as about 1/4 inch of rise per 12 inches, and the roof has to slope toward the downspout. Ponding water means the slope or the drain has a problem.

  • Have a pro check the surface for blisters and cracks at flashing and chimney caps.
  • A light-colored reflective coating protects the roofing from sun, which the manual names as its main enemy, and keeps the top floor cooler.
  • Clean gutters regularly and check downspouts during a heavy rain. Storm water has to drain onto your own property, not onto the sidewalk or the neighbor’s lot.
  • A roof deck does not waterproof anything. Make sure the roofing under it is in very good shape before you build one.

Flat roof systems, costs and permits are covered in our flat roof guide. If you already see a ceiling stain, read what a small roof leak costs if you wait.

Brick and mortar

The Rowhouse Manual says mortar should be similar to the brick, so the two expand and contract at the same rate. Its other rules:

  • Repair eroded joints and cracks promptly, and keep the weep holes near the base of the wall clear.
  • In 19th-century houses with thin “butter joints,” rake out bad mortar by hand. Don’t saw the joint wider.
  • Don’t sandblast or acid-clean brick, and don’t paint it with a coating that doesn’t breathe.

Masonry repointing on a one- or two-family home generally doesn’t need a building permit (City of Philadelphia), but the manual lists it as a job better left to professionals.

Basement and moisture

A damp rowhome basement usually starts outside. Fix the drainage first: gutters, downspouts, the slope of the yard or alley. Then:

  • Run a dehumidifier for general dampness, and add a sump pump if seepage is heavy.
  • Remove or plug unused basement toilets, sinks and floor drains, and consider a backflow preventer to stop sewer backups.
  • Dry or remove anything that gets wet within 48 hours to prevent mold.
  • If several houses on the block flood at once, the problem is probably the sewer, which is the Water Department’s job.
  • Never dig out a basement floor without professional help. It can undermine the party wall.

Party walls and structure

The wall you share with your neighbor is also your fire separation. The manual calls for party walls of two or more wythes of brick in good condition, with any openings filled from top to bottom. Two structural warning signs to watch:

  • A front or rear wall that leans outward. Check it with a plumb bob; if it leans, call an engineer.
  • Rot where floor joists sit in pockets in the brick. Water at the top of the wall often causes it, and star bolts or chemical anchors are the usual fix.

Windows and doors

Original wood windows can often be restored: re-glued sash, new sash cords or chains, fresh glazing and paint. Replace only the sash if the frame is sound. Weatherstripping, and taping over pulley holes in double-hung windows, cuts drafts. Interior storm windows improve efficiency without changing the facade, which matters in historic districts.

Stoops, steps and porches

Repair loose steps, railings and balusters as soon as you notice them, and seal cracks in steps and sidewalks before water freezes in them. When you replace parts, the manual recommends using the original material: wood for wood, brick for brick.

Inside: plaster and old paint

Plaster walls crack with settling and humidity changes. Small cracks can be taped and skimmed; loose plaster that sounds hollow when tapped needs to be reattached or replaced. In homes built before 1978, assume the paint may contain lead. Contractors who disturb more than 6 square feet of interior paint or 20 square feet of exterior paint, or replace any window, must follow EPA lead-safe rules (JLC).

A simple yearly routine

  • Spring: roof surface and flashing check, gutters and downspouts, mortar joints and weep holes.
  • Summer: repaint exposed wood trim, check the roof coating, run the basement dehumidifier.
  • Fall: gutters again after the leaves drop, weatherstripping, caulk around windows.
  • Winter: watch for ice and ponding on the roof, and for cold spots on walls with plumbing.

Our month-by-month maintenance calendar breaks this down further.

Help with your rowhome

Handyman Services of Philadelphia has worked on rowhomes across the city since 2010: carpentry, window and door repairs, plaster, and full renovations. See our residential remodeling and handyman services, call (267) 669-8388, or request a free estimate.

FAQ

How often should a rowhome roof be checked?

The Rowhouse Manual doesn’t set a fixed schedule. A check every spring and after major storms catches most problems before they leak.

Who pays to fix a shared party wall?

It depends on where the damage is and what caused it. Talk to your neighbor first, document the problem with photos, and get an assessment before work starts.

Do I need a permit to repoint my brick?

Masonry pointing on a one- or two-family home generally doesn’t need a building permit in Philadelphia, unless the property is on the historic register.

Should I replace my original windows?

Not always. If the frames are sound, restoring the sash and adding weatherstripping or interior storms can be cheaper and keeps the facade intact.